~Frequently Asked Questions~
and
~ Brands and Purchasing Tips~

When dealing with private oboe students, the most common obstacles I have found, in relation to producing a proper tone, are reed and instrument problems. If a student has a "bad" reed and an instrument which is not functioning properly, that student is just NOT going to get a decent sound. The oboe, as you may have noticed, has about a million adjustment screws (okay, I'm exaggerating here, but not by much!). In other words, there is MUCH room for error. For this reason, a good quality oboe is a must! Unfortunately, when dealing with oboes, you've got your "Yugos" and your "Mercedes", and not much in between! But I urge you, when purchasing an instrument, to get the best oboe that you can afford. It will save you money in repairs and adjustments in the long run! You would also be amazed at the difference in sound and response in a higher quality oboe. The newer oboes have a remarkably "even" tone in their different ranges and registers.

Below is a list of brands of oboes to look for. Keep in mind though, that there are "lemons" in the oboe world just like the automobile world-- sometimes you just get a bad oboe, no matter what the brand name is! The best advice I can give -- you'll be safe if you buy from a company that makes only oboes!

This list has been compiled with much help from oboists, oboe dealers, manufacturers, and repair technicians. My personal thanks go out to all who helped me in this research! I have included model numbers, features, and approximate price ranges (of new instruments) when possible. Also, some of the logos are links to the respective websites. I do not have personal experience with all of these, which is why I have asked for other professional opinions. I have found Nora Post's website has excellent commentary on many of these brands. Also keep in mind that used oboes are a great way to get an excellent instrument at a lower cost!

Let's start with the Obvious.....

-- Be sure it is an F. Lorée. On some online auction companies, I have seen A. Lorée oboes for sale. This was the first I had heard of these, so they scare me a little! There are different models of F. Lorée. A few of my students have purchased the the "AK" models-- these are NICE! They have a very dark tone and a sound as smooth as silk. The model C+3 has also been recommended by many performers.

-- Comparable to a Lorée. Whether you're a "Lorée" or a "Fox" person is sort of like being "Mac" or "IBM"-- some prefer Fox, some Lorée. I usually recommend the plastic student models for school systems.

-- Paul Covey makes his own line of oboe, and they are excellent. They, along with Lorée and Fox, make up what most consider to be the top three choices. Paul has especially perfected the design of the bell. He even sells them separately and says that a Covey bell will enhance the intonation, temperament, and sound of ANY oboe, even the Lorée.

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The Less Obvious....

Laubin-- The last I heard, there was a very long waiting list for Laubin Oboes and English Horns (somewhere around ten years for the English Horns I believe, four for the oboes!), but they're nice if you can get one.
Price range: Will be updated soon!

-- "Mark Chudnow Woodwinds" oboes are made with Grenadilla wood and are intermediate oboes.

-- Fossati, another professional line oboe. In my research, I have found that the maker of these oboes does not play oboe-- I'm not sure if that's a bad thing, I just thought it was interesting. Fossati began manufacturing oboes in the late '80's, and in that time his production numbers have become comparable to some of the other top line manufacturers.

-- Like Lorée, Marigaux is another French oboe. I have read about more and more professional oboists switching from some of the more well-known professional models to the Marigaux. Everyone I have spoken to has had great things to say about this oboe.

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Cabart-- An intermediate level oboe. The brand name has been owned by Loree since 1974, so only oboes marked with "Cabart - 74" are those actually made by Loree. My only experience with Cabart was a student I worked with at a summer band camp. The oboe seemed, in my short time with it, to be a very nice intermediate instrument. I think the general concensus is that these oboes are good intermediate oboes, and older used ones are quite serviceable.

-- These oboes are less well known in the United States, but seem to be the oboe of choice among professionals in France! Some players are saying that the Rigoutat mixes the best qualities of the Laubin and Lorée oboes. Definitely one to keep an eye on!
Price range: Will be updated soon!

-- Howarth oboes, for the past 50 years, have been played mostly by the English musicians. During the past 20 years, Howarth has expanded it's production to offer their product to the American player. I have heard nothing but great things about these oboes, though I've never tried one myself.

-- I have to admit, this one was a bit of a surprise to me! I haven't had personal experience with Yamaha oboes, but many of the dealers and oboe specialists I surveyed recommended the model YOB-410 (plastic model) or YOB-411 (wooden model) for intermediates. The new Yamaha YOB-841 is their professional level oboe, and it is apparently making quite a splash too.

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-- This is a Japanese oboe. Manufactured by Yukio Nakamura since 1991, these oboes are played by performers all over the world. As stated in the Musik Josef brochure, "The conception and manufacture of a JOSEF oboe is not oriented by a commercial philosophy; meeting the performer's demands is what really matters."

Frequently Asked Questions--

• Where should I get an instrument? --When purchasing an instrument, as I've said on the other pages of this site, I strongly suggest that you do so from a double reed specialist shop. Most companies will send you the instrument (after you furnish a credit card number of course) for a trial period of about a week or so. This is the best thing I can recommend. I know, with the red tape involved in purchasing a school instrument, this may not be possible-- but I would still try to find a way!
  
• Will that be plastic or wooden?-- The ultimate conflict. Of course, most will agree that wooden is always better. If you are purchasing an instrument for a school, however, I would suggest either a plastic oboe, or an oboe with a plastic top joint and a wooden bottom joint-- they're just more practical. With wooden oboes, the question isn't "Will it crack?", but "WHEN will it crack?" Wooden oboes need to be broken in-- not just when they are new, but also if they have been unplayed for a length of time. If an oboe is not broken in properly, it WILL crack. The plastic oboes (or top joints) are much more practical for a school instrument. Some companies are also making oboes that are called "hybrids"-- they have integrated wood and plastic. The only experience I have with a hybrid is that one of my private students owns one. I have played this instrument and it is a very nice instrument! Maybe they're on to something!
  
• What is "Full Conservatory", and do I really need it?-- It is what you want to get! Full conservatory basically means the oboe has all the bells and whistles-- the left-hand "F" key, the third octave key, low Bb resonance key, split "D" ring, etc. And yes, you need all those things-- they help keep the young player from developing bad habits (that oboe teachers spend months/years trying to break them of!), such as using the alternate "forked F" as their default fingering for "F". I really don't understand why ANY company even still makes an oboe that is not full conservatory (it is sort of like making a car without air conditioning and seat belts).
  
• What should I do if my new oboe cracks?-- This is one reason I suggest buying from a double reed specialist. Most reputable dealers offer warranties on their new instruments. When doing research before buying my English horn, I found that most companies offer a warranty ranging from 1 to 2 years. You really need to get the details on the warranty though... does it include crack repairs, and for how long? Some companies will warranty an instrument for 2 years, but only 6 months for crack repairs. If an instrument is going to crack, it will probably do so within the first year of play, so 6 months for crack repairs isn't all that great. If it does crack, however, you need to get the crack repaired as soon as possible! The longer the oboe is played, the worse the crack will get, and the chances are higher that the crack will open up again later.
  
• What else should I know about purchasing an oboe?-- What else is included in the purchase price? Does the purchase price include a case? (Don't laugh, some don't!) Does it include a case cover? If you are buying an English Horn (bless you, you wonderful band director!), does the price include a double case? Is an instrument stand included? (Some include a plastic stand!).What about a humidity control device (such as a dampit)?
  
• Should I, as an "oboe challenged" band director, ever touch my school oboe with a screwdriver?-- I wouldn't suggest it, unless it is simply a post screw that needs tightening. Most the screws on the oboe are adjustment screws. It may be very obvious that to fix a leak on one pad, all you have to do is tighten "this" or "that" adjustment screw. By doing this, however, you just might create another problem with another pad.

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